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Diagnosin' a problem is tough enough when you're on-site Mike. Tryin' to do it at a distance via someone else's description certainly doesn't make it any easier. (The precedin' was a disclaimer of sorts)
I would think that your optimum option here would be to bring the car to a reputable mechanic for an evaluation, but even the most reputable of mechanics godda eat, so it's gonna cost you a little. Thing of it is, whatever it costs, it's gonna be alot less than what you're gonna hafta spend if the car is a money-pit waitin' (30 days/1000 miles) to permanently become your money-pit. 'Somethin' to think about.
That said, if the coolant level is low enough (we're talkin' ungood levels of low here) it can cause a "no heat" situation from the heater. Dependin' on HOW low, it could be a source of (here we go again) "tickin' n' poppin'" sounds from the overheatin' engine n' related parts.
I've had alot more experience with iron blocks than I have aluminum ones, but the aluminum ones are alot less tolerant of bein' run without the proper level of coolant. That situation usually makes for problems down the road (read: after the 30 day/1000 miles).
Movin' on from the possible overheatin' aspect: this "retorquing of the whole suspension and everything" covers a whole lotta ground. I'm sure it could, possibly, take care of the problem if it was related to "the whole suspension and everything", but, then, if it actually was . . . I'd wanna know exactly what part was loose n' why (Damage repair? Hot-rod parts bein' removed prior to resale?)
I'm quite possibly readin' this as a "worst-case-scenario". At this range, that's the best I can offer.
Maybe some of our other, infinitely more capable diagnosticians, will venture along (feel free to jump in any time guys) and be able to come up with less ominous results.
Get thee n' thy Stewie to that reputable mech Mike. This is too important to leave to an eval by some yay-hoo typin' away on his computer God-knows-where.
Good luck n' be well.
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