Answer me this?

bigfishs · 04-21-2005, 08:34 PM

Just bought an 01 S2K with 20000miles. Many performance mods inc super charger

(see signature for details)

Only 2 guages installed, air/fuel and boost. Should I add any more, like oil pressure/temp or EGT or will check engine light inform me if there is a problem

Center console around shifter is scratched. Already has carbon fiber dask kit, but this one console piece is missing. Dont want to buy full kit to replace one bit-any suppliers of it or OEM bit (pretty sure that as OEM u get the whole console. Can get whole console from junkyard for 100US.

Car has coliovers and is lowered, I'm guessing at least 1.5 in (not much space with the stock 16's in the wheel well, but no rubbing on bumps. No other suspension mods. When I go round corner and over bump, on neutral throttle, back end likes to kick out (am puttin on 4 new yokos tommorrow which I hope will help). Is this due to too low or too stiff springs/lack of critical damping

Or is this the way rear wheel sports cars behave (my previous car was a WRX, which tend to understeer)

Other than not reving to 9K on every gear (I know we all find it hard to resist), especially when cold, and doing synth oil changes every 3K, what can I do to make it sure my baby makes it to greater than 50K

Thanks for any help you can give. Glad to be part of the S2K troops!

wowowox · 04-22-2005, 03:27 PM

what @@ ? u use 100% sythetic and u change oil every 3k ? thats when the oil is at the best ! sythetic oil is differnt from normal oil

bigfishs · 04-22-2005, 06:11 PM

I had heard synthetic oil lasts for longer as it is cleaner, and hence contains less sulfur impurities to oxidise/decompose. I didnt realise it got better for a period with time (like wine?). Where did hear that? When is the sweet spot?

SmokinV8s · 04-27-2005, 04:33 PM

I use syn in my car and every 3000 miles and its black as tar by then. My cars performance greatly incresed when i use fresh syn oil. My performance is shown when i run against my friends WRX that has some modifications on it. With old oil he will always get me by a car and 1/2 length but when i put fresh syn oil i get him by 2 car lenths. sounds funny but its the truth. I beleive in changing oil every 2500 to 3000 miles depending on how your driving habits are, the more you drive hard the sooner you will need to change oil and if you think changing oil every 3000 miles is bad try doing that with syn royal purple oil that is $12 a quart but its worth it if your planning on runing it hard one saturday nights if you know what i mean

......... Just my thought from my own experience.

Java Junky · 06-22-2005, 03:51 PM

Not much more than a note: after a couple of passes at the strip the oil will darken and not look "brand new" anymore. The oil's still clean, just discolored. No reason to panic.
During WWII the Germans came up with the synthetics. As one of the synthetics most endearing features is it's tendency to cling to the parts what they'd do was to run a brand new engine up on full synthetic. They'd shut it down, drain the synthetic for the next new engine in line, fill up the original engine with regular oil, pat it on it's shiny rump and send it on it's merry way. The synthetic would stay with the inner workin's of that engine for quite some time.
When you run synthetic it clings to the engine's innards. If you're runnin' a mix of synthetic n' regular oil, what basically happens is that the synthetic is your lubricant and the regular oil becomes nothin' more than a coolant, pullin' the temp from the synthetic as it passes.
Again: ain't nothin' written in stone, my '82 GS-1100 Suzuki was last seen with over 80,000 on it's clock, my '87 FZR Yamaha (with it's present owner) has 85 plus thou, and I've added a half a quart of synthetic every other oil change. So, for me anyway, it seems to work.
N' while I'd like to tell you that my oil changin' habits are always on a regular basis, nothin' could be further from the truth. Yeah, I know: BAD Java. What can I tell ya? It's a gift.

Halo · 06-25-2005, 09:18 PM

I have many of the same mods as your car, so I can comment on a few things.

The S is actually very well balanced from the factory as to under/oversteer. However, worn rear tires will make it oversteer like a mofo. Those Yokos will definitely help from baldies. They aren't nearly as sticky as the stock S02s though. The SC gives such a surge of power that the rear end will really brake loose on you if you're rounding a curve and pass through 6,000 rpm. Watch out for that!

The H&R coilovers (if it is the same ones I have) use springs with equal rates front and rear. The good thing is they picked a set of shocks (rebadged Bilstien PS's) that are perfectly matched for those spring rates. These are designed to give very neutral handling provided the car is lowered equally all around from stock.

What I see people do though, is they drop the front more to get that tuner 'raked' look. While this looks nice on the road, what it does is transfer more weight to the front wheels giving even MORE oversteer tendency. No biggie for trips to the grocery store or whatever, but if you want to push the car to the limits, oversteer will be the rule.

If you really wanted to go nuts with this, you could have your car corner balanced with those H&Rs; unfortunately this costs several hundred dollars or more. A more economical approach would be to find out the stock ride height (measure a stock car at the dealer or search some of the coilover install threads at www.s2ki.com) and adjust your car so it is level. Then drop it equally (i.e. equal number of turns of the locknuts) on all 4 wheels. This is a crude method, I admit, but better than nothing.

You need an alignment once you've found a ride height that you plan to keep for a while.

I change the oil with synthetic about every 3,000 miles because that's about 7500 on my other car and it is so much easier to just do 'em both at the same time. Probably way overkill I'm sure, even though the oil in our cars also cools the SC. I agree that the color of the oil is not a matter on whether it is stil functional.

Sorry for the long post. Enjoy the car!

04-21-2005, 08:34 PM	#1 (permalink)
bigfishs Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 2	Answer me this? Just bought an 01 S2K with 20000miles. Many performance mods inc super charger (see signature for details) Only 2 guages installed, air/fuel and boost. Should I add any more, like oil pressure/temp or EGT or will check engine light inform me if there is a problem Center console around shifter is scratched. Already has carbon fiber dask kit, but this one console piece is missing. Dont want to buy full kit to replace one bit-any suppliers of it or OEM bit (pretty sure that as OEM u get the whole console. Can get whole console from junkyard for 100US. Car has coliovers and is lowered, I'm guessing at least 1.5 in (not much space with the stock 16's in the wheel well, but no rubbing on bumps. No other suspension mods. When I go round corner and over bump, on neutral throttle, back end likes to kick out (am puttin on 4 new yokos tommorrow which I hope will help). Is this due to too low or too stiff springs/lack of critical damping Or is this the way rear wheel sports cars behave (my previous car was a WRX, which tend to understeer) Other than not reving to 9K on every gear (I know we all find it hard to resist), especially when cold, and doing synth oil changes every 3K, what can I do to make it sure my baby makes it to greater than 50K Thanks for any help you can give. Glad to be part of the S2K troops!

04-27-2005, 04:33 PM	#4 (permalink)
SmokinV8s Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 1	Synthetic Oil I use syn in my car and every 3000 miles and its black as tar by then. My cars performance greatly incresed when i use fresh syn oil. My performance is shown when i run against my friends WRX that has some modifications on it. With old oil he will always get me by a car and 1/2 length but when i put fresh syn oil i get him by 2 car lenths. sounds funny but its the truth. I beleive in changing oil every 2500 to 3000 miles depending on how your driving habits are, the more you drive hard the sooner you will need to change oil and if you think changing oil every 3000 miles is bad try doing that with syn royal purple oil that is $12 a quart but its worth it if your planning on runing it hard one saturday nights if you know what i mean ......... Just my thought from my own experience.

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04-22-2005, 03:27 PM	#2 (permalink)
wowowox Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 307	what @@ ? u use 100% sythetic and u change oil every 3k ? thats when the oil is at the best ! sythetic oil is differnt from normal oil

04-22-2005, 06:11 PM	#3 (permalink)
bigfishs Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 2	I had heard synthetic oil lasts for longer as it is cleaner, and hence contains less sulfur impurities to oxidise/decompose. I didnt realise it got better for a period with time (like wine?). Where did hear that? When is the sweet spot?

06-22-2005, 03:51 PM	#5 (permalink)
Java Junky Resident Curmudgeon Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Joisey Posts: 5,433	Not much more than a note: after a couple of passes at the strip the oil will darken and not look "brand new" anymore. The oil's still clean, just discolored. No reason to panic. During WWII the Germans came up with the synthetics. As one of the synthetics most endearing features is it's tendency to cling to the parts what they'd do was to run a brand new engine up on full synthetic. They'd shut it down, drain the synthetic for the next new engine in line, fill up the original engine with regular oil, pat it on it's shiny rump and send it on it's merry way. The synthetic would stay with the inner workin's of that engine for quite some time. When you run synthetic it clings to the engine's innards. If you're runnin' a mix of synthetic n' regular oil, what basically happens is that the synthetic is your lubricant and the regular oil becomes nothin' more than a coolant, pullin' the temp from the synthetic as it passes. Again: ain't nothin' written in stone, my '82 GS-1100 Suzuki was last seen with over 80,000 on it's clock, my '87 FZR Yamaha (with it's present owner) has 85 plus thou, and I've added a half a quart of synthetic every other oil change. So, for me anyway, it seems to work. N' while I'd like to tell you that my oil changin' habits are always on a regular basis, nothin' could be further from the truth. Yeah, I know: BAD Java. What can I tell ya? It's a gift.

06-25-2005, 09:18 PM	#6 (permalink)
Halo Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 598	I have many of the same mods as your car, so I can comment on a few things. The S is actually very well balanced from the factory as to under/oversteer. However, worn rear tires will make it oversteer like a mofo. Those Yokos will definitely help from baldies. They aren't nearly as sticky as the stock S02s though. The SC gives such a surge of power that the rear end will really brake loose on you if you're rounding a curve and pass through 6,000 rpm. Watch out for that! The H&R coilovers (if it is the same ones I have) use springs with equal rates front and rear. The good thing is they picked a set of shocks (rebadged Bilstien PS's) that are perfectly matched for those spring rates. These are designed to give very neutral handling provided the car is lowered equally all around from stock. What I see people do though, is they drop the front more to get that tuner 'raked' look. While this looks nice on the road, what it does is transfer more weight to the front wheels giving even MORE oversteer tendency. No biggie for trips to the grocery store or whatever, but if you want to push the car to the limits, oversteer will be the rule. If you really wanted to go nuts with this, you could have your car corner balanced with those H&Rs; unfortunately this costs several hundred dollars or more. A more economical approach would be to find out the stock ride height (measure a stock car at the dealer or search some of the coilover install threads at www.s2ki.com) and adjust your car so it is level. Then drop it equally (i.e. equal number of turns of the locknuts) on all 4 wheels. This is a crude method, I admit, but better than nothing. You need an alignment once you've found a ride height that you plan to keep for a while. I change the oil with synthetic about every 3,000 miles because that's about 7500 on my other car and it is so much easier to just do 'em both at the same time. Probably way overkill I'm sure, even though the oil in our cars also cools the SC. I agree that the color of the oil is not a matter on whether it is stil functional. Sorry for the long post. Enjoy the car!