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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 19
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differentials??
guys I have heard that the diffs on the s2ks aren't that strong. Now personally I don't think they're weak... but if I decide to put a s/c or t/c on would I need to change it? (maybe 350-400hp) I've heard they replace it with the skyline rear diff.
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#2 (permalink) |
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"Enjoy the drive"
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Kuna Idaho
Posts: 2,811
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You can do that. Another option is to get the Comptech reinforcement piece installed if anyone still has any. Another option is to not launch the car and drive it normally until you are moving, then jump on it.
__________________
Yablownowitz Racing brought to you by Anytime Fitness. Happiness is a nice road, great weather, and driving the S with Sue in the seat next to me. "Whatever you do, where ever you go, enjoy the drive." I know for a FACT that the last year of production of the S2000 is 2003!!!!! After that, it will be the S2200 under an assumed name. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Salt Lake City, UT, USA
Posts: 254
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On that note - should you not launch the car in stock form? I'm about to pick up an 02 and don't want to have to worry about breaking the differential or driveshaft.... coming from only having FWD cars I've never had a problem with breaking either so I figured it'd be good to check.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 19
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well I used to own a BMW 323ci and without even tuning the car I broke 2diffs then put in a M3 diff... that sorted it out but the car just wouldn't accellerate.. top speed 280kmh or smthin..
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#5 (permalink) | |
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"Enjoy the drive"
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Kuna Idaho
Posts: 2,811
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Quote:
__________________
Yablownowitz Racing brought to you by Anytime Fitness. Happiness is a nice road, great weather, and driving the S with Sue in the seat next to me. "Whatever you do, where ever you go, enjoy the drive." I know for a FACT that the last year of production of the S2000 is 2003!!!!! After that, it will be the S2200 under an assumed name. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Resident Curmudgeon
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Joisey
Posts: 5,432
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As usual, Go's suggestions r' on the money.
Drive a Mustang like a Mustang. Drive a Stewie like a Stewie. N' if you're really intent on hammerin' it n' you replace the differential, the next weak link in the drivechain's gonna jump up front-n'-center demandin' your attention. Check the site out for posts on the subject. I think you'll find that most folks pumpin' extra horses through Stewie recommend normal starts. Stewie's a strongly built little unit, but repeatedly hammerin' it'll blow things up without the need of extra horses. Be well. Java
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In life-long pursuit of that most mythic of beasts: the ever-elusive perfect corner. Well . . . that, r' at least a whole lodda clear spin-out room. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 19
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thanx for the advices guys! So, simply, if I'll be nice with the clutch and the drivetrain, the stock system of the car will handle around 400hp right?
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Salt Lake City, UT, USA
Posts: 254
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Is there a good aftermarket differential that can handle being hammered on with stock power figures? Like I said before all I've owned were FWD Civics and Preludes.... none of which gave me any problems as far as breaking differentials or axles...
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I went through a few long shafts in my 1995 Civic DX w/1999 Civic Si DOHC swap when drag racing and dumping at high RPMs in stock form the axels are weak (I ones that worked I think were made by the drive line shop)
the fact is the "S" is not a drag racer but a autocross car just my feelings if you change the diff you'll throw off the geometery and end up needing to change the drive shaft and axles and the next weak point that comes along etc, etc,.. and when thats all done there will be more just behind that to think about, just swapping out the diff will not solve the issue |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: L.A.
Posts: 20
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While I understand, or think I understand, the issues here, I'm a little puzzled that Honda would build such a track-attractive car with a vulnerable diff/trans. Even in autocross, I would think that a competitor would like to have other things to worry about than blowing out the drive train.
BTW, a very sane sounding mechanic (not an s2k expert, but a Honda non-dealer mechanic) told me that he often sees broken axles, not broken diffs. I'm not out to "launch" my car. And I don't think I've burned up a clutch in my life. But I am curious as to why a company like Honda (let's face it, these guys can do anything) would come up with band-aid fixes for existing problems (like the solution of the clutch release valve...somebody kill me now), instead of addressing the problem itself. Marrk 1200 mi on an 07s2k (a.k.a. another ignorant newbie) |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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never heard anybody have or worry about the tranny or diff running going out in the way we're talking about on a autocross track thats what the car is built for(you don't dump the clutch at high RPMs running a track only in stop light or drag racing)
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 4
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Quote:
I do believe that Honda built the diff the way it is out of weight and cost concerns. Think about it like this. First you upgrade the diff, splines, and LSD to eliminate the weak link. Maybe 5-10 lbs. Upgrade the axles. Another 5-10 lbs. Driveshaft. 5lbs. Stronger clutch. 1-2lbs. Stronger transmission. A lot of weight. Then comes the flywheel. Couple more pounds. Now if you upgrade all of that then you've gained quite a bit of weight, spent a couple thousand dollars more at least, and someone will still find a way to break something. Someone has to step in somewhere and say..."Look it's a moderately priced sports car. Everything is supposed to be perfect." Even the Porsche Cayman doesn't have a limited slip diff and it's almost twice the price. At least Honda gave us that. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Grumpy old(er) phart
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Here today, gone tomorrow...
Posts: 1,309
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The flywheel is lightened, the clutch is a multi-plate, competition unit--less weight, the rear is cryogenically hardened and peened (if necessary) no weight gain...axles are pretty strong, you don't dump the clutch in road racing, so ...no problem
__________________
"The BS stops when the green flag drops". In memory of David Weber - Malvern Racing |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Salt Lake City, UT, USA
Posts: 254
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How do you launch an S2k then, like if I wanted to try my skills at the local drag strip?
That's the only thing I'm missing about my old Prelude right now... could dump the clutch at 7 grand and not break anything (did it for 6 years with no problems other than wearing out tires quickly lol) |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 4
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Don't take too much stock in what I say because I don't drag or launch. However, from what all the guys you do say, you want to sidestep the clutch around 5k-7k rpms and feather the gas. They say you want to make sure to break traction with the tires or you're more likely to break something and if you run wider than normal tires you really need to be careful.
There are tons of people that launch all the time and have for multiple years and have yet to break something. Of course there are other people who said they have never launched and broken something in the diff. I'd say if you want to launch do it however you want. If you break something then rebuild the diff with a different gear ration and enjoy the change. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 544
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I had a lot of play in the drive train at 85000 miles. The car was never drag raced. I had a Mugen LSD installed an the mechanic who did it said the oem lsd was filled with powder. I also replaced the drive shafts, propeller shaft, and axle shaft nuts which I torqued to 221 ft/lbs per the tsb. All play is gone
Jonathan
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MY 2000 Mugen Air box, Headers, Exhaust, ECU, Pressure Plate,LSD, Radiator cap NZ Dampers, Thermo SW and Thermostat. Sampco intake pipe and radiator hoses, Swift sway bars, Stillen rotors w/ M-tech extreme pads. BBS JDM Forged Wheels.w/ Potensa Re=01R's Nextgear Intake manifold gasket, SPA gauges, Alpine IDA-X001,KCE-300Bt BT Adapter, Focal 165 K2P speakers, Phoenix Gold ZX475Ti, Recaro Profi SPG w/Sparco 6 pt |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 16
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non turbo 300zx is a good stronger and cheaper replacement
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#18 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 16
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There is an two old sayings in the racing world:
1) Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go? 2) Build something idiot proof and someone will build a better idiot... |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Resident Track Whore :)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Chula Vista, CA
Posts: 1,285
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FWIW...the diff in the S2K is the same as the diff in a Kia (I forget which model), just different gearing. That should tell you something.
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Vezna Financial Services - For mortgages, accounting and taxes, and phone service needs. http://www.vezna.com San Diego Car Club - http://www.sdcarclub.com |
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