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#1 (permalink) |
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Turbo guy
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DIY: Injector driver install
Well my injectors and my new FJO injector driver have been sitting around for a few weeks awaiting install and I decided to start tonight, so here we go.
Disclaimer: The method used here was intended for my use, I assume no responsibility if break something using this method. This method was intended for the FJO injector driver, but other injector driver installs I imagine would be similar, if not identical. I went with the FJO injector driver, as it is a 4 channel driver and more economical than the AEM unit. ![]() For starters, as always, disconnect your battery. ![]() Remove the fuel rail and injectors. ![]() If you are upgrading from factory injectors, make sure you take out this "O ring". ![]() Comparison of factory injector to a Siemens 875cc injector. ![]() If you are using new clips, mark them positive and negative. ![]() Find a mounting place for the injector driver, I mounted mine here ![]() The black wire coming from the injector driver is the ground, ground it. ![]() Here is a wiring diagram and pic of the wires ![]() ![]() Start soldiering the negative leads from the injector clips to the white/striped wires from the injector driver ![]() Be sure to use wire shrink wrap to keep the connections safe from the elements ![]() ![]() I was doing a bunch of other soldiering today while finishing up my fusebox relocation, and for some reason my soldiering iron gave out after soldiering 1 clip to the injector driver, so I'm going to have to stop here for tonight until I get another soldiering iron. Stay tuned.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Nice work. I always appreciate people that do their own work and are willing to show the steps involved.
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S2kx2: "paint it pink! Or better yet buy a Miata" 2001 Vortech SC 12.8 at 111 miles per hour |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Turbo guy
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Update:
Spent a little bit fiddling around before I came in and started cooking lunch. I'll be finishing it up after I eat. Make sure your soldiers are good ![]() Finish soldiering all of the negative leads to the white/striped wires ![]() ![]() Now start hacking into the injector harness. Take off all of the electrical tape/harness protector ![]() ![]() ![]() If using new clips, go ahead and snip off the factory ones ![]() ![]() Lunchtime, will update this afternoon/evening.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Turbo guy
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Thanks, I'll have a few DIY threads in the next few days including AEM MAP sensor install, fusebox relocation, battery relocation, AEM EMS install, and possibly a few others.
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#5 (permalink) | |
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All MOTOR S2K
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Sunshine State
Posts: 917
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Quote:
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![]() Mods: 18" Axis Reverbs w/Black Rays Lugs, Invidia N1 Exhaust, CAI, ACT Stage 2 Clutch, JDM Side Markers, Clear Corners, Slotted/Drilled Rotors, Spoon Pads, Spoon Steel Brake Lines, Spoon Reservoir Socks, Type R Shift Knob, Custom Stitched Hand Made Convertible Top w/ Glass Window, JDM Aero Screen, Body Matching Dash & Shift Molding Panels, Polished Valve Cover and CAI, Engine Steel Braided Wire Kit & S2000 Caliper Vinyls.. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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awesome
Join Date: May 2008
Location: arlington
Posts: 439
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j/k... keep 'em comin'! we need more how-to's on here.
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i need a better signature. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 497
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Quote:
Jonathan
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MY 2000 Mugen Air box, Headers, Exhaust, ECU, Pressure Plate,LSD, Radiator cap NZ Dampers, Thermo SW and Thermostat. 66 mm Throttle body, Sampco intake pipe and radiator hoses, Swift sway bars, Stillen rotors w/ M-tech extreme pads. BBS JDM Forged Wheels.w/ Potensa Re=01R's Nextgear Intake manifold gasket, SPA gauges, Alpine IDA-X001,KCE-300Bt BT Adapter, Focal 165 K2P speakers, Boston 10.5LF Subwoofer, Phoenix Gold ZX475Ti & Xenon X600.1 Sub Amp, Recaro Profi SPG w/Sparco 6 pt |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Mustang Killer
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 394
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Nice write-up. We really appreciate your help especially since you obviously know what you're doing. Thanks.
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It’s alright. I aint losing. This fool’s running a Honda 2000. I’ll win, that way me and my dad can roll together when he gets out of prison. It’s all good. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Turbo guy
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Update
Well I made a dumb error and didn't realize it until I finished. Turns out I marked the positive and negative leads on the clips wrong, I'm going to need to swap them. The above information is all correct, just make sure you mark the clips right. (Measure twice, cut once) From the injector harness, each injector has 2 wires going to it. A yellow/black one, and a colored one. The yellow/black one is the 12v power source, and the colored one is the ground (this goes back to the ECU). (Cyl 1 happens to be brown) ![]() The instructions say to connect the red wire from the driver to the injector 12v power wire. From what I saw our car doesn't have a single injector power wire visible on this part of the harness, as each injector has its own yellow/black power wire. I just decided to connect all of the yellow/black wires and also connect 5 leads to it, one for the driver, four for the injectors. A bit sloppy, yes, but it should work. ![]() Soldier the red driver wire to one of the leads you just made: ![]() Soldier the other four to the remaining open injector clip leads. ![]() Almost done ![]() Now soldier the remaining injector wires from the harness to the corresponding injector driver wires. Brown goes to the orange driver wire (Cyl 1) Blue goes to the blue driver wire (Cyl 2) Red goes to the yellow driver wire (Cyl 3) Yellow goes to the green injector wire (Cyl 4) And that's it! Be sure to wrap everything up and if you can, get another wire protector. I'll update once I do. Any questions, just ask!
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