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Old 07-12-2011, 10:28 AM   #1
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Diff Fluid. OMFG

Just did the first 15k change today. Holy schnike! that stuff wreaks. whoever said it smells like wet dog *** wasnt that far off the mark.
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Old 07-12-2011, 10:49 AM   #2
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Yeah it does!! Hate that smell! (I know, wrong thread)
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Old 07-12-2011, 10:59 AM   #3
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No wet dog smells that bad. It is truly an unmistakable smell isnt it?
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Old 07-12-2011, 11:02 AM   #4
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No wet dog smells that bad. It is truly an unmistakable smell isnt it?
it ranks right up with a variety of other smells.
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Old 07-12-2011, 11:18 AM   #5
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Yeah, I changed mine the other day. It is awful. I had to throw all my rags away and the shirt i was wearing when I changed it. It's disgusting. Changing the oil and coolant after doing that was a relief haha At least it's easy to change though and takes like 10 minutes.
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Old 07-12-2011, 03:06 PM   #6
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all depends on the oil xD we have a diff oil at toyota that smells quite nice when it comes out, unless its been burnt of course
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Old 07-12-2011, 03:31 PM   #7
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FYI, synthetic doesn't smell bad and works even better.
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Old 07-12-2011, 03:58 PM   #8
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FYI, synthetic doesn't smell bad and works even better.
I use full synthetic and it still smells nasty
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:08 PM   #9
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ya......the Mobil 1 I put in was quite mild compared to what came out.

And to the OP.....thankfully I am not able to assimilate the smell of "wet dogs ***".....but I'd imagine that that is purdy bad.....
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Old 07-12-2011, 09:46 PM   #10
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I use full synthetic and it still smells nasty

mobil 1 75w90 gl5. like a hippies sweater in august.
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Old 07-12-2011, 10:37 PM   #11
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Just did the first 15k change today. Holy schnike! that stuff wreaks. whoever said it smells like wet dog *** wasnt that far off the mark.
I said "a monkey's a$$".

http://www.s2000.com/forums/engine-t...questions.html
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Old 07-13-2011, 05:41 AM   #12
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Mine turned into crude. I need to change it more often. The manual lied to me...that s.o.b.
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Old 07-13-2011, 05:55 AM   #13
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I concur with OP, first change was awful. Running amsoil now, changed out last years amsoil this season and it's not half as bad.
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Old 07-13-2011, 06:39 AM   #14
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Thread saver!

Why does it need saving? With an *** like this why the fuc% not?!


Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 07-13-2011, 06:43 AM   #15
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Your right Stray, nice rear on that. Just don't want to see the rear fluid....
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Old 07-13-2011, 10:58 AM   #16
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I use full synthetic and it still smells nasty
Yeah my Amsoil smelt horrid.
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Old 07-13-2011, 02:53 PM   #17
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Thread saver!

Why does it need saving? With an *** like this why the fuc% not?!


Click the image to open in full size.

I knew I recognized the top of that girls head.
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Old 07-13-2011, 04:55 PM   #18
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I knew I recognized the top of that girls head.
Notice that it still has the imprint from my beer can.
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Old 07-13-2011, 05:17 PM   #19
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Notice that it still has the imprint from my beer can.
beer can.... ashtray... bong.... whatevs.
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Old 07-13-2011, 05:39 PM   #20
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Amazing ***.......god's way of typically apologizing for a lack of rack......

(insert a pic from BB now to prove me wrong.....)
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Old 05-19-2012, 04:07 PM   #21
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Got the "B126" code again a couple weeks ago (approaching 60k miles), so out came the differential fluid, along with the other maintenance. This time, it wasn't completely black, and didn't smell all that bad! It was Mobil 1 75/90 I used before, so I'm guessing this is quite different than what Honda put in. Easy job though, especially with experience.

Anyway, I noticed a problem with the crush washers. At the point of contact with the copper fill washer, there was a bit of galvanic corrosion on the differential housing. Now, I've seen plenty of other pictures of this job, with no noticeable traces of it...so what the heck could be happening under my car??? I'm at a loss with this one, but since I needed a new drain washer, I picked up a couple new 5/8" synthetic washers from Autozone that seemed to work fine. Did some research beforehand (of course)...and companies like Toyota, Mazda, and apparently even Honda are using them now. I'll be keeping a close eye on them for the next week or two, but I don't expect to find any problems. (You'll all know it if I do).
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 05-20-2012, 04:31 AM   #22
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Purdy picher.
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Old 05-20-2012, 06:42 PM   #23
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I use a 50/50 mix of M1 75/90 and 75/140, I use this in all my cars(2), truck(1) and bike(2).
My "S" rear end runs hotter than my truck even when I'm pulling 7k with the truck.

ROD
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Old 05-21-2012, 06:34 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim21680 View Post
Got the "B126" code again a couple weeks ago (approaching 60k miles), so out came the differential fluid, along with the other maintenance. This time, it wasn't completely black, and didn't smell all that bad! It was Mobil 1 75/90 I used before, so I'm guessing this is quite different than what Honda put in. Easy job though, especially with experience.

Anyway, I noticed a problem with the crush washers. At the point of contact with the copper fill washer, there was a bit of galvanic corrosion on the differential housing. Now, I've seen plenty of other pictures of this job, with no noticeable traces of it...so what the heck could be happening under my car??? I'm at a loss with this one, but since I needed a new drain washer, I picked up a couple new 5/8" synthetic washers from Autozone that seemed to work fine. Did some research beforehand (of course)...and companies like Toyota, Mazda, and apparently even Honda are using them now. I'll be keeping a close eye on them for the next week or two, but I don't expect to find any problems. (You'll all know it if I do).
Click the image to open in full size.
Maybe something to do with this:
http://www.s2000.com/forums/all-othe...41-nooooo.html
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MY2000 #2249 MODS: APR carbon fiber spark plug cover, Megan Racing test pipe, Megan Racing drift spec catback exhaust, K&N drop-in filter, Tanabe NF210 springs, Rick's smoked side markers, OEM front lip, OEM rear lip spoiler, AP1 OEM wheels painted black w/chrome lip, Carbon fiber cooling plate
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Old 05-21-2012, 07:33 AM   #25
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Was thinking that...and I'm still wondering what effect that incident will have on the rear wheel bearings and CV joints, etc. (If any, I'll probably be finding out soon...)
Almost immediately after that happened, I did change the diff fluid, but it hasn't been touched since then (~25k miles ago, I think).

Very possible this is what accelerated the copper/aluminum corrosion I saw. It still drives shivers up my spine every time I see those pics
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:25 AM   #26
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Was thinking that...and I'm still wondering what effect that incident will have on the rear wheel bearings and CV joints, etc. (If any, I'll probably be finding out soon...)
Almost immediately after that happened, I did change the diff fluid, but it hasn't been touched since then (~25k miles ago, I think).

Very possible this is what accelerated the copper/aluminum corrosion I saw. It still drives shivers up my spine every time I see those pics
Yeah, that had to suck man!
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MY2000 #2249 MODS: APR carbon fiber spark plug cover, Megan Racing test pipe, Megan Racing drift spec catback exhaust, K&N drop-in filter, Tanabe NF210 springs, Rick's smoked side markers, OEM front lip, OEM rear lip spoiler, AP1 OEM wheels painted black w/chrome lip, Carbon fiber cooling plate
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:46 AM   #27
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Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

yes, jagg, it is purdy. it is a pumpkin. i like pumpkins, too.

beeb

might not be a total waste of time to view this. it's the sulphur in your diff fluid that stank. this may enlighten you a bit. i have smelled worse things.

http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf
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Old 05-21-2012, 01:08 PM   #28
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I really need to swap mine out. I don't even remember the last time I flushed it, but it's been a looooooooonnnnnnnnnnnnnngggggggggggggggg time.
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Old 05-21-2012, 01:08 PM
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