I'm tire retarded

[DarkShade9]

I think I know what I am doing

I am looking at a set of Konig Crosshairs



at 17" X 8" 5/114.3

would these tires fit, and if not, what would be your suggestion?

Falken FK-452 215/40ZR17 87 - Front
Falken FK-452 235/40ZR17 90Y - Rear

Thanks

[gomarlins3]

From what I can find, the tires will work with those wheel dimensions. The problem you may run into is with the offsets. They need to be correct or you might have a rubbing issue.

Also, with non-staggered wheels your handling will be effected. Some people have gone with non-staggered wheels so I know it can be done, but I haven't driven or rode in a car set up like that so I can not comment on the effects.

Use this as a reference:
For the front:
6.5” to 7.5” wide wheel: 205 tires: +43 offset minimum
7.0” to 8.0” wide wheel: 215 tires: +48 offset minimum
7.0” to 8.0” wide wheel: 225 tires: +53 offset minimum
7.5” to 8.5” wide wheel: 235 tires: +58 offset minimum
7.5” to 8.5” wide wheel: 245 tires: +63 offset minimum

For the rear:
7.5” to 8.5” wide wheel: 235 tires: +40 offset minimum
7.5” to 9.0” wide wheel: 245 tires: +45 offset minimum

Food for thought:
As written by spa-zz on S2Ki:
When choosing aftermarket wheels, wheels should be chosen that have stagger, like the OEM wheels. This allows you to use a wider tire on the rear, which is essential to proper handling and safety of the S2000. It is possible to run the same width wheels front and rear, and stagger only the tire sizes in a similar way to OEM tire sizes. However, this is not an ideal solution, because you may end up attempting to mount a tire on a wheel that's outside it's recommended width range. For instance, the popular 17x7" or 17x7.5" wheels that are so common. You could run the OEM AP2 tire sizes on these wheels, however the rear tire will be pinched on the rear wheel, because the OEM wheel is 8.5" wide. When pinching a wide tire on a narrow wheel, the intended performance and tread life of that tire may not be met.

So, when choosing aftermarket wheels, consider the tire sizes that will fit on them by looking at the specs of the tire you want to use (see the rim width specs), and try to maintain the stagger of wheel widths that the OEM sizes have. If anything, err on the side of a wider wheel and tire for the rear as this is the safer solution.

[DarkShade9]

Hmm I guess I may need to find different rims, they don't meet the offset requirement. They are only 40. Also, how can I tell if tires 'stagger'?

[Java Junky]

Dark, I godda run, but it might help if you checked two posts from some time back "Beware the Flim-Flam Man" n' "For Sale -With a Warning". Before you spend your money's the time to research this.
Be well.
Java

[DarkShade9]

I wish there was just an easy guide to use when putting new rims and tires on your car besides shifting through a thousand numbers that mean so many different things.

[gomarlins3]

Originally Posted by DarkShade9

Also, how can I tell if tires 'stagger'?

Staggered means that the front wheels are narrower than the rears. Our OEM wheels are:
AP1 Front:
16" x 6.5", +55 offset
Rear:
16" x 7.5", +65 offset

and the OEM MY04+ (AP2) wheels (including MY06) are as follows:

Front:
17" x 7.0", +55 offset, 215 tire
Rear:
17" x 8.5", +65 offset, 245 tire

Notice that the fronts are 1" or 1 1/2" narrower than the rears on both models. That is what makes them staggered.

[bobby2002S2K]

Hey dark i know Rota slipstreams work i just order some. but they are 16x7's and 16x8.

[DarkShade9]

Hmm, well unfortunately they don't make differentiating offsets in that particular rim unless you go to a bigger size (17" to 18" for instance), so I guess I'll look for something else.

Yeah I was looking at some Rota's, though I was looking for something a little flashier than the SS's. Something with a decent amount of spokes with a color scheme of silver, grey, pearl, white or glossy black.

[bjurasz]

I did a search on Tire Rack for wheels for a 2006 S2000:

Upgrade Garage - Wheel Search

What I found interesting was that only the TRMotorsport F3 came up as an exact match for widths and offsets. Luckily for me I really like the simplicity of a 5-spoke design. But it left me wondering how one figures out if a rim that is too narrow or has the wrong offset will still fit? How much wiggle room is there? And, with offsets in particular, is it better to go more positive or more negative on the offset if its not exact?

[DarkShade9]

Maybe some of you guys/gals can help me out. I've decided to go for a specific look.

Are 17" rims/tires and aftermarket springs enough to close the fender gap enough to look sportier? I like the way my Integra looks with Tein S-Tech's. Also, for a silver car with a black top, I was kind of leaning towards the color scheme I had above (silver, grey, pearl or glossy black) to match the car all around. Any rim recommendations as well?

[Hi_Psi]

well i have a newb question too since i am doing research on the car before buying it, what is the biggest wheel size you can go with in the rear without rolling in our fenders? and ig i do roll them in, would i be able to fit some 18 or 19x10 in the rear with a 1-1.5 inch drop?? again sorry for the newb question. i did se the chart, but want to know if i will have to roll in the fenders.....

[gomarlins3]

If it is not on the chart, I would say you would have to roll the fenders. I have 18X9's in the rear with an offset of 63. I do not have a rubbing problem with a 1 1/2 inch drop and no roll on the fenders.

[Java Junky]

Hi, if you haven't yet purchased the car maybe you can save yourself a whole lodda work n' money.
Without bein' familiar with the handlin' of Stewie you're ready to increase the rear sprung weight n' the front to rear contact patch ratio.
There are a whole lodda cheaper, less capable cars that you can "pimp" with all the accessories that get the nod of the heavy-lidded great gods of cool.
There are very few cars, more capable, that can have their abilities hamstrung by unwise alterations.
Drive the car. Get a real taste of what it's capable of. Then if you feel that there's some area where you can improve it, at least you've got a ground-zero to progress from.
Be well.
Java

[DarkShade9]

For the type of driving I do, I know I need slightly bigger tires. It really does feel like it's on rails, but with a wider contact patch on the ground I would feel more confident and safe with wider tires.

I'm hopefully looking to get something in the 17" range, 16" seems too small and 18" are just slightly oversized for the miniscule body of the S2000.

Here's an offshoot question: What's the main difference between paying $180 per rim on some brand-x or $559 per rim on a brand name? The same thing you get when you buy Pantene over Suave?

[Java Junky]

'Shade, sometimes the dollar difference is actually for more than a name. The best wheels are forged (like cranks) n' the lesser wheels r' cast. Some castin' methods r' better than others too.
Next time you're on the 'Rack site n' you're checkin' out wheels for Stewie, home in on some of the wheels n' check the manufacturin' methods. I'm goin' from addled memory here guys so don't jump all over me for inaccuracy, okay?
Somethin' like the TR somethin' r' others r' goin' for a good amount'a cash. They're forged n' very light weight.
Somethin' like the Weds r' pretty reasonably priced, but r' nowhere near'z light n' they're cast.
Sometimes the extra money's actually for a reason. Sometimes.
Be well.
Java

[DarkShade9]

I just have a small problem justifying more than $1500 for wheels is all. I can take a few more pounds and a non-brand if it means I can spend the rest of the cash on 4.56 gears.

Only other issue I have is how few rims will fit our cars. Either they don't come in the correct lug pattern or the offsets are ridiculously low that there's just a specific set of them that work with the S. Every time I find something nice, the offset is too small, or they only come in 18"+. I may stick with stock until someone decides to make an affordable, quality rim for the S.

[Hi_Psi]

Originally Posted by Java Junky

Hi, if you haven't yet purchased the car maybe you can save yourself a whole lodda work n' money.
Without bein' familiar with the handlin' of Stewie you're ready to increase the rear sprung weight n' the front to rear contact patch ratio.
There are a whole lodda cheaper, less capable cars that you can "pimp" with all the accessories that get the nod of the heavy-lidded great gods of cool.
There are very few cars, more capable, that can have their abilities hamstrung by unwise alterations.
Drive the car. Get a real taste of what it's capable of. Then if you feel that there's some area where you can improve it, at least you've got a ground-zero to progress from.
Be well.
Java

before ANY mods are done to the car, i want to keep it ALL stock, buy all the parts i will need, and when i have everything, i will pull the motor out, build the tranny, and replace the rear. after all is done, THEN i will know what kind of tires will i need. i just want to know everything i can and cant do so i wont be on here last minute asking what to do and what can work. INSTEAD i will be in here asking opinions, should i go with these or these, black or chrome. stuff like that. i have driven fast cars, so i know tire size and whell width is a very big part when racing. i have had a 1jz swapped 88 turbo supra with 430whp and a 98 3000gt vr4 with 500awhp. both were fun cars, i sold the supra to get the 3k, and the 3k caught on fire about 1 year and a half ago. i am taking my time researching here and there about every performance car out there before getting into one. so far the s2000 meets my criteria, rwd, 2 seater, slick, nice curves, and very good engine platform. hopefully i can show you guys little my little what i have done to the car you guys so much love.

[bjurasz]

Dark, I understand not wanting to spend $$$ on rims. I'm not a big fan of my '06 rims, but I'm not a big fan of the money required for some nice BBS either. Maybe I'll get a big bonus soon...

As far how many rims fit our car, The Tire Rack - Your performance experts for tires and wheels gave me a pretty lengthy list of rims. Not all have the exact same offset as stock but they appear to fit just the same. My only head-scratcher is if the offset is different but yet is still compatible how will that look on the car? For example, the BBS RGR.

[DarkShade9]

Originally Posted by bjurasz

Dark, I understand not wanting to spend $$$ on rims. I'm not a big fan of my '06 rims, but I'm not a big fan of the money required for some nice BBS either. Maybe I'll get a big bonus soon...

As far how many rims fit our car, The Tire Rack - Your performance experts for tires and wheels gave me a pretty lengthy list of rims. Not all have the exact same offset as stock but they appear to fit just the same. My only head-scratcher is if the offset is different but yet is still compatible how will that look on the car? For example, the BBS RGR.

Yeah their list is alright, though there has to be more than that somewhere.

Man looking at that, only the offbrand are reasonably priced. The O.Z. Supraleggera? I'd have to take out a loan for four of those!

[Hi_Psi]

Originally Posted by DarkShade9

Yeah their list is alright, though there has to be more than that somewhere.

Man looking at that, only the offbrand are reasonably priced. The O.Z. Supraleggera? I'd have to take out a loan for four of those!

lmao holy crap you aint lying! things are almost 1 grand a piece!

[Java Junky]

'Couldn't agree with you guys more.
I've been doin' the dance'a the wheel virgins since I realized that I was gonna need separate sets of hoops for winter n' summer use. My road-kill sandcrab stock 17" units have become my official winter rims.
In my rush (as I've put up as an embarrassin' warnin' on more than a few occasions) to accomplish this I fell victim to a flim-flam man that convinced me that +48s would work on the rear of Stewie. Yeah. Pretty stupid.
'Good lookin' paperweights though.
While there is the safety offered by the folks at the 'Rack in that at least all the rims that they offer will fit, there's nothin' up there that has the kick-ass look of my ultimate wheel: the old anthracite Cragars ('look alot like the Mustang "Bullit" wheels). There's lots'a "lacey" lookin' stuff that seems to be popular, but, goin' by the looks n' the prices, not alodda options that I could happily sink my teeth into.
I eventually hazed over n' jus' put a pair of the 9", +55 WedSports on the rear n' made use of my ill-fated 7", +48 5Zigen FN01R-Cs up front.
I don't 'spect that I'm gonna be makin' the cover'a Better Homes n' Gardens with the mismatched rims, but I've hammered it through some pretty "not-quite-track-surface" corners n' nothin's rubbin' r' doin' anything that it's not supposed to 'cept ta stick. I can live with that.
Good luck in your search guys.
Be well.
Java

[ActionMan]

While on the subject, what about wheel size recommendations? There's a reason the stock AP1 wheels are 16" and staggered. HONDA engineers had parobably calculated and tested numerous combinations and sizes before deciding on the wheels. 17"s might look better, but I fail to see any benefit in handling or performance from bigger & heavier wheels.

gomarlins3, do You use different size wheels for the street and the track? If so, what are Your recommendations for track use?

[Java Junky]

Regardin' the earlier 16s n' the later 17s AM, from what I gather it appears that the taller sidewall of the 16s is a small portion of the suspension of the AP1s. Having the same outer diameter with the 17s of the AP2s makes for a markedly less tall sidewall n' flex is lessened. The softer suspension of the AP2s, I believe that more than makes up for that loss.
As for the factory stagger, that's part of what gives Stewie the front/rear balance n' the reason that it takes corners like it does.
The folks at Honda put Stewie right on the efficiency edge of cornerin' with what Stewie brings to the playground.
When you mess with that factory stagger by either lessinin' r' increasin' the front traction r' the back traction (whether by increased contact patch, compound r' anything else that can increase r' decrease the grip) you could bring it to increased understeer (the front tires start breakin' traction before the rears) r' you could (shudder) increase the oversteer, which more than a few of us are already familiar with: as in when your butt's hangin' out into the unpaved portions of the landscape r', in really extreme cases, it's racin' your nose to the next apex.
As for bigger wheel/tire combinations bein' heavier: usually, but when you do your homework n' you aren't doin' it for "looks", not always the case.
Without increasin' the width of a rim/tire, but only increasin' the diameter of the rim n' thereby lessenin' the rubber involved in the sidewall (stayin' with the same OAD) you could, in some cases lessen the sprung weight. Dependin' on the rim/tire size the removal of so much rubber weight might be less than the weight involved in the extra metal of the rim.
Be well.
Java